КАФЕ ВСЕКИ ДЕН

Or rather, Coffee every day. Coffee is ubiquitous in Bulgaria. You can get espresso shots in little plastic cups from a variety of stores, machines, and cafes to sip while you wait for the bus or walk to work. It usually costs a little under half a lev, or roughly 40 cents. In the mornings while I waited for the bus that heads out to the protected area, I would either buy a mocha-flavored coffee from a machine on the street or a simple espresso from a little store near the bus-stop. This was before we got an espresso machine at the nature center. Now I wait until I arrive in the morning and make the espressos myself for myself and my coworkers - which we enjoy as we watch the fog rise off the reeds and wonder what species will be revealed by the morning sun. Ah, what joy to be awakened and invigorated by a drink universally enjoyed - whether in America or Bulgaria, you begin your day with the same beverage - a drink that crosses cultures and yet at the same time, allows differences of custom to influence its imbibing.

The most noticable difference between coffee in Bulgaria and America is that, in general, it will be very difficult to find a place that serves American-style coffee in a mug. By American-style, I mean that it is prepared by hot water dripping through ground beans through a filter into a large pot which is then poured into coffee mugs. It is possible to get what is known as 'long coffee' - this is an espresso left under the espresso machine a little longer, allowing more water to condense through the grounds. But the 'long coffee' is still not even half a mug. This also means that Bulgarians find American coffee very weak and watery. It is also not common to add all the different flavors to coffee that we do in the states. Jess and I have had to be a little creative when we have had cravings for Caramel Machiattos. Some cafes serve steamed milk with caramel. We simply order one along with an espresso and when they arrive at the table, mix them together. But it would be very rare to find a place that offered such a sweet concoction on their menu. Another noticable difference would be in the coffee culture of the two countries. It is much more acceptable to go a to coffee house alone in America and to spend hours there reading the paper or surfing the internet, all the while enjoying the solitary company of yourself. In Bulgaria, cafes are much more singularly meeting places to gather and enjoy conversation with others. It is unusual to see someone alone in a cafe in Bulgaria. This is probably simply evidence of our cultural preference of enjoying time to ourselves. In any case, Jess and I are conscious of behaving differently culturally when we go to a cafe to only read a book.

There are also several different options for coffee drinkers in Bulgaria. Besides the aforementioned espresso, it is common to find Nescafe served in restuarants and cafes. Jess and I enjoy 'Tri-vuv-edno' or 3in1 Nescafe at home. That's powdered coffee premixed with sugar and milk, so its like a sweet little pre-made latte once you add the hot water. Even at a nice restuarant, a cappucinno may be hot water added to a cappucinno packet instead of an espresso shot mixed with steamed milk. Another option available in most places is Turkish coffee. This is coffee made by putting the grounds (and sugar, if desired) in a special pot and heating it until the drink begins to foam. It is poured into a little cup and you have to wait to allow the grounds to settle at the bottom before you drink. Afterwards, the grounds can be knocked onto a saucer and read by a fortune teller. I have never had this done with my own future, but only because fortune tellers are much rarer than Turkish coffee.

Besides the terrace of the nature center, coffee can be enjoyed almost everywhere in Bulgaria. I already mentioned the many automated machines that sell instant coffee - they can be found on the streets and in the bus and train stations. It is common to serve coffee in your home when people visit for 'na gosti.' In every town, there is usually a pedestrian street lined with outdoor cafes where people gather. Some cafes are simple with plastic chairs and tables, some can be very fancy with plush cushions and hanging beaded cutains. In most it is possible to keep current with the latest international pop hits. There are small convenience stores in every neighborhood, sometimes just a basement window near a busy intersection, from which you can buy coffee to go. I personally believe Jess and I are the luckiest of all the coffee-drinking Peace Corps volunteers, since we are able to enjoy our coffee on the beach in one of the many beach cafes. I should also probably mention that I have been happily reading the press releases announcing the eminent arrival of Starbucks coffee in Sofia.