Saturday, January 10, 2009

Gas Crisis!

You may have read in the news recently about a dispute between Russia and Ukraine resulting in the natural gas being cut off to many countries in Eastern Europe. Since we live in a country affected directly by the crisis (Bulgaria receives 90% of its natural gas from Russia), we hear about it from our co-workers. Jess's school is in the area of the city that is heated primarly by natural gas and because of this had co-workers who had no hot water from the tap and had to heat water in the microwave to wash their faces and brush their teeth. Some school districts have declared holidays to conserve the gas used to heat the buildings. Jess' school was not shut down, but its hours were reduced - starting later and finishing sooner. Our apartment has always been heated with an electric powered radiator, so our hot water and heat has been unaffected by the gas crisis. We do, however, suffer the normal minor inconveniences of winter. In general, we solve our weather woes by confining ourselves to the bedroom easiest to heat, preparing more soups, cocoas and coffees, and Jess has started dressing like a blanket-covered ninja.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Yordanov Den

Yordonov Den (St. Jordan's Day) or Epiphany takes place every year on the 6th of January. In towns across Bulgaria priests bless crosses and throw them into lakes, rivers, and the sea. Brave men from around the town then jump into the ice cold waters and swim to retrieve it thereby receiving the priest's blessing for the year. This year it was a balmy 4 degrees (39 degrees for all you Fahrenheit folk) and with snow still on the ground we made our way to the sea where Bourgas' celebration is held. Now I have a little confession. Last year when I was told of this cross throwing event, I was imagining more of a Jesus crucifixion cross and not the small wooden cross of a priest. So needless to say I was a little disappointed, since all year long I had envisioned men diving into the water and pulling out this humongous cross. When we arrived at the pier a sizable crowd had already gathered. We went down on to the beach hoping to catch some good photos, since only the press is allowed in the area where the actual event takes place. The ceremony starts at the church and the priests make their way on foot to the sea. 19 men and boys took part in the event this year and from where we were we could just make them out on the end of the pier. When they were all ready the priest threw the cross and they jumped in, braving some pretty rough seas, to retrieve it. While the boy was receiving his blessing we noticed the people on the beach near us walking toward the water and realized that they too were going forward to receive theirs. The belief is that when the priest throws the cross into the water, it becomes purified and many people went to touch it and bless themselves. A couple of people even bottled the water. On his way back to the church the priest blessed the crowds (and us!) with water by dousing some branches and flicking them at the crowd.

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Why Are There Little Kids Beating Me?

The survachka, a New Years tradition unique to Bulgaria, brings good health to all those touched by it. Survachki are made with short branches from a Cornel tree. The best ones are those that have branches directly opposite each other, as they are twisted and tied into half moons on each side, creating circles. The branches are then decorated with bits of colored wool and string, popcorn and dried fruit. Kids carry them around on New Years Day, tapping grown-ups and reciting poems for good health. In return they are given money, usually pocket change. One of the most popular poems goes as follows...

Сурва,сурва година, (Happy happy new year)
весела година! (merry year)
Едър клас на нива (good harvest)
голям грозд на лоза, (big grape on the vine)
жълт мамул на леса, (yellow ear in the field)
пълна къща с коприна, (full house with silk)
червена ябълка в градина, (red apple in the garden)
живо-здраво до година, (alive and healthy all year)
до година, до амина (all year, Amen)